Sleeve Variation

Some Variation of sleeve and how to make them.
1. Flare Sleeve
    There are 2 ways of making this sleeve
     the first method is slashing and spreading. First you make a basic sleeve. (look at the basic sleeve
     block post) http://silverdustjournal.blogspot.sg/2013/04/how-to-make-basic-sleeve.html
     Like the picture shown bellow, the red line is where you slash the sleeve. After Slashing, just spread the bottom part of the sleeve.

  

The second method is to draw a flare on the bottom and raise the edges.

2. Cap Sleeve
     - First meassure 8 cm down from the center line of the sleeve and mark the point.
     - Then draw the bottom of the sleeve just like the sleeve's head.
     - Lower the edges of the sleeve by 2,5cm .
     - then just meassure how long you wnat the cap sleeve to be and just true and bled the pattern.

3. Puff Sleeve
    A. is puffed at the bottom,basicly the first method for every puff is the same. as you can see on the picture bellow, the red line is where you slash the sleeve.
 For the first one (a.) it is slash and spread at the bottom
    B. slash and spread evenly (horizontaly)
    C. Slash and spread at the top

 

This are how the puff sleeves will look when its done.

 

 

How to make basic sleeve.

For This basic sleeve block the meassurments are:

Sleeve Length  : 65 cm

Front Armhole : mark by X

Back Armhole : mark by Y

(the front and back armhole meassurements are taken from the torso block or according to the measurment of the model)

Fitted and semi fitted bodice

First step is to trace your basic bodice block,  

 like the picture bellow. left one is the back of the bodice, and the right is the front part of the bodice.

 

 

Second, for the fitted bodice I use the red line and for the semi fitted I use the blue marker line.

Fitted Bodice :
1. raise the arm hole about 0,5 cm up from the arm hole line and about 1 cm in.
2. measure 0,5 on the side seam on the waist and hem part. then true the pattern.(use curve ruler)

Semi Fitted Bodice (blue line) :
1. Extend the side of the bodice by 0,5 and blend the shape using the curve ruler.
2. Drop the armhole by 1 cm and then true the new arm hole using a french curve ruler.

How to make a bell shape sleeve

How to make a bell shape sleeve?

First you make a basic shape sleeve and decide how long are you going to make the sleeve. For this one I'm going to make it short.

 



 

So after drawing the basic sleeve, make the bottom of the sleeve more flare by drawing a curve on the side part of the sleeve.

 

 Do the same thing to the other side of the sleeve.

 

 

 

After that blend the bottom part of the sleeve using a french curve to make a curve shape at the bottom of the sleeve.