Collars (lesson week 3)

A. Roll collar
     to make a roll collar, first always make a straight vertical and horizontal line.

Measure the shoulder and from shoulder to the center front. For this picture the shoulder measurement is 8,5 and from the shoulder to the Center front is 11,5.

On the CF (Center Front), raise about 1,5. And make a curve line from the shoulder to the raised CF with a frech curve. After that make a straight line on the raised CF point,



 

 

Add measurement at the vertical line for the stand and the collar. Here I've put 4 for the stand and 5 for the collar. The collar size must always be bigger than the stand, to cover the stand until the neckline point. 

Extend the line at the CF, and make the collar using a French curve so it will look nice.

 

 

And the Final pattern will look like this



 

another version or the roll collar

B. Semi Roll (Eton)

     The semi roll collar is almost the same as the roll collar, but the semi collar tends to be smaller  and have more curve.

    

      First step, always draw a straight horizontal and vertical lines. Then mark the shoulder and CF point. For this picture shoulder measurement is 8,5 and from shoulder to CF is 11,5. At the vertical line raise 2 cm.

 

Then make a curve from the raised vertical point to the CF. And then mark another 2cm and 3cm on the vertical line. and don't forget to make a straight line on the CF (it has to be 90 degre angle). at that line measure 5cm.

 

And then just join the both 5 cm point and semi roll collar is finish

 

 

C. Sailor Collar

     First step is to trace the torso block, the front and back shoulder should be attached to one another. and then lower the neckline by 0.5cm so it won't be to tight. and make a new curve for the new neckline.

 

After that measure about 10 cm at the CB (Center Back), (10cm can be change according to the design). And then make a straight vertical line from the CB, I make the vertical line about 16cm long (the collar cannot be bigger than the arm hole point). Then measure 16cm on the CF(can change according to the design). And join the two point.

And finaly join the 16cm point on the CF to the neckline at the shoulder, so it will make a triangle shape.

 

 

D. Peter Pan Collar  

     The first steps are the same, just trace the torso block and lower the neckline by 0,5cm. And then measure about 5 cm around the neckline and make a new curve. To finish the collar, make a straight line that is 90 degre angle from the neckline at the CF, then measure about 3cm on the CF, and make a curve using the french curve at the edge collar point to the CF point.