Sleeve Variation

Some Variation of sleeve and how to make them.
1. Flare Sleeve
    There are 2 ways of making this sleeve
     the first method is slashing and spreading. First you make a basic sleeve. (look at the basic sleeve
     block post) http://silverdustjournal.blogspot.sg/2013/04/how-to-make-basic-sleeve.html
     Like the picture shown bellow, the red line is where you slash the sleeve. After Slashing, just spread the bottom part of the sleeve.

  

The second method is to draw a flare on the bottom and raise the edges.

2. Cap Sleeve
     - First meassure 8 cm down from the center line of the sleeve and mark the point.
     - Then draw the bottom of the sleeve just like the sleeve's head.
     - Lower the edges of the sleeve by 2,5cm .
     - then just meassure how long you wnat the cap sleeve to be and just true and bled the pattern.

3. Puff Sleeve
    A. is puffed at the bottom,basicly the first method for every puff is the same. as you can see on the picture bellow, the red line is where you slash the sleeve.
 For the first one (a.) it is slash and spread at the bottom
    B. slash and spread evenly (horizontaly)
    C. Slash and spread at the top

 

This are how the puff sleeves will look when its done.

 

 

How to make basic sleeve.

For This basic sleeve block the meassurments are:

Sleeve Length  : 65 cm

Front Armhole : mark by X

Back Armhole : mark by Y

(the front and back armhole meassurements are taken from the torso block or according to the measurment of the model)

Fitted and semi fitted bodice

First step is to trace your basic bodice block,  

 like the picture bellow. left one is the back of the bodice, and the right is the front part of the bodice.

 

 

Second, for the fitted bodice I use the red line and for the semi fitted I use the blue marker line.

Fitted Bodice :
1. raise the arm hole about 0,5 cm up from the arm hole line and about 1 cm in.
2. measure 0,5 on the side seam on the waist and hem part. then true the pattern.(use curve ruler)

Semi Fitted Bodice (blue line) :
1. Extend the side of the bodice by 0,5 and blend the shape using the curve ruler.
2. Drop the armhole by 1 cm and then true the new arm hole using a french curve ruler.

How to make a bell shape sleeve

How to make a bell shape sleeve?

First you make a basic shape sleeve and decide how long are you going to make the sleeve. For this one I'm going to make it short.

 



 

So after drawing the basic sleeve, make the bottom of the sleeve more flare by drawing a curve on the side part of the sleeve.

 

 Do the same thing to the other side of the sleeve.

 

 

 

After that blend the bottom part of the sleeve using a french curve to make a curve shape at the bottom of the sleeve.

 

 

 

Collars (lesson week 3)

A. Roll collar
     to make a roll collar, first always make a straight vertical and horizontal line.

Measure the shoulder and from shoulder to the center front. For this picture the shoulder measurement is 8,5 and from the shoulder to the Center front is 11,5.

On the CF (Center Front), raise about 1,5. And make a curve line from the shoulder to the raised CF with a frech curve. After that make a straight line on the raised CF point,



 

 

Add measurement at the vertical line for the stand and the collar. Here I've put 4 for the stand and 5 for the collar. The collar size must always be bigger than the stand, to cover the stand until the neckline point. 

Extend the line at the CF, and make the collar using a French curve so it will look nice.

 

 

And the Final pattern will look like this



 

another version or the roll collar

B. Semi Roll (Eton)

     The semi roll collar is almost the same as the roll collar, but the semi collar tends to be smaller  and have more curve.

    

      First step, always draw a straight horizontal and vertical lines. Then mark the shoulder and CF point. For this picture shoulder measurement is 8,5 and from shoulder to CF is 11,5. At the vertical line raise 2 cm.

 

Then make a curve from the raised vertical point to the CF. And then mark another 2cm and 3cm on the vertical line. and don't forget to make a straight line on the CF (it has to be 90 degre angle). at that line measure 5cm.

 

And then just join the both 5 cm point and semi roll collar is finish

 

 

C. Sailor Collar

     First step is to trace the torso block, the front and back shoulder should be attached to one another. and then lower the neckline by 0.5cm so it won't be to tight. and make a new curve for the new neckline.

 

After that measure about 10 cm at the CB (Center Back), (10cm can be change according to the design). And then make a straight vertical line from the CB, I make the vertical line about 16cm long (the collar cannot be bigger than the arm hole point). Then measure 16cm on the CF(can change according to the design). And join the two point.

And finaly join the 16cm point on the CF to the neckline at the shoulder, so it will make a triangle shape.

 

 

D. Peter Pan Collar  

     The first steps are the same, just trace the torso block and lower the neckline by 0,5cm. And then measure about 5 cm around the neckline and make a new curve. To finish the collar, make a straight line that is 90 degre angle from the neckline at the CF, then measure about 3cm on the CF, and make a curve using the french curve at the edge collar point to the CF point.  



      

     

Stand collar

A. Stand Collar

• First make a horizontal and vertical line. then measure the Shoulder size and from the shoulder to the CF (Center Front).
• Shoulder measurement is 8 and from shoulder to CF is 13cm.
• The width of the collar is 4cm. So mark 4cm on the vertical line.
• on th CF raise about 2 cm and make a curve from the shoulder to the point that have been raised. extend the line 2cm. Then make a straight line on the CF point and the extended point.
• Then draw a line for the upper part of the collar. and make a curve for the edge of the CF using a french curve.

B. Mandarin Collar

•  First step is the same as the stand collar. shoulder and the measurement from shoulder to the CF are also the same.
• Raise the CF about 1,5cm, and make a curve from the shoulder point to the CF. extend the line about 1,5cm and don't forget to draw the straight 90 degre angle line at the CF and the extended point.
• Draw the upper part of the collar, and make a round curve for the edge of the collar using the french curve. 

 C. Two Piece Shirt Collar 
      Shirt collar consist of two part, the collar stand and the collar. First we will do the collar stand.
    
      1. Collar Stand

• Do the same first step.
• Raise the CF about 1,5cm. Then make the curve from shoulder to the CF and extend 1,5cm. Make the 90 degre angle straight line 3cm long.
• Mark 3cm up on the vertical line. Then draw the upper part of the collar stand.
• Make a curve edge on the collar stand, the curve strated from the CF to the extended part. 

       2. Collar

• Do the same first step. Match the measurement to the stand collar.
• Raise 2cm on the cross of vertical and horizontal line, and make a curve from the shoulder point to the CF.
• Raise another 4 cm, and make a straiht line and extend 5cm from the CF.
• Join the extended part to the CF on the lower part.

 
 
 
 
 

Blouse Parts

To know the parts of a blouse you have to unpick the stitches or cut  on the seams.

The order to unpick or cut:

1.       Collar

2.       Collar stand

3.       Sleeves

4.       Cuff

5.       Placket (cuff)

6.       Seam

7.       Placket – opening

Note: there are several parts that cannot be cut and have to be unpick, for number 5 and 7.  

This is the picture of the blouse, before cutting or unpicking anything.


 

Front View



Side View
 

Back View

 

After unpicking or cutting it, lay it flat so we can see the shapes of the parts clearly.



This picture bellow shows the part of the collar, collar stand, and the back neckline.

• The collar consist of two layer join into one, with a layer of interfacing inside to give a sturdy structure.  
• The collar stand also consist of two layer that will be join into one, with a layer of interfacing.
• The collar will be join onto the collar stand. And the collar stand will be join onto the neckline.

 

This pictures bellow show the side of the body seams.
The opening of this blouse have a separate panel of placket.


This picture shows the shape of the sleeves, that will be attached to the arm hole.